There is an especial romance to a railway hotel - those opulent palaces that used to temporarily accommodate weary yet glamorous travellers as they voyaged cross country. Harkening back to a time when travel was a slower and more indulgent affair, heading to one these days can allow you to spy the trappings of a bygone era. 

The Milner York started life in 1853, the early days of the UK's railway age, as the Royal Station Hotel. Its conception and development were intertwined with the development of the national railway system - designed, as it was, to welcome people in transit. Indeed, when we say it's close to York Station - it's a two-minute walk, even with a lazy stride. 

Its history is storied - I'll spare you the details here, though it changed hands several times, notably in 1982 with the privatisation of the railways - and in October 2024 it rebranded from The Principle to The Milner York. The new name promised an increased focus on service. So naturally C&IT wanted to check it out.

The Location

This is one heck of a selling point for The Milner. The proximity to the railway station is delectable - the respite of being able to step off a train and be kicking off your shoes to flop on a king-sized bed within the time it takes to listen to 'Bohemian Rhapsody' can not be overstated (other pop songs are available). Back in its earliest iteration, the hotel staff used to run through tunnels underneath the late-Victorian structure to deliver freshly printed menus to the trains as they were about to set on their way. Unfortunately, these tunnels are now waterlogged, but they add to the historic allure of The Milner. 

But besides how handy the hotel is to the station, it's noteworthy how handy York is as a destination for events. Less than two hours from London on the comfy, speedy Grand Central direct, and two and half hours by train from Edinburgh, the locale is great for facilitating meetings if operations have offices in both the English and Scottish capital. 

And the city itself is on the hotel's doorstep: you can see this intricately pretty city's famous city walls, and Minster, from the hotel windows. It's no walk at all to be in the heart of York, a thrummingly historical, charming town, with an abundance of lovely restaurants and attractions. 

The Style The exterior is monolithic, almost imposing - an angular pile of sandy bricks, crisscrossing drain pipes - not to sound too simple-minded, but it's a very heavy-looking building, (whispered) a touch run-down. Inside, however, things are more sleek - refined velvet armchairs, elegant Chesterfield sofas, gilt-framed mirrors, and tones of soothing taupe and grey everywhere. It feels thoughtfully appointed to instill calm. 

The marble-chessboard flooring of the hallways is a strikingly elegant touch, and dates back to the hotel's infancy, in the mid-1800s. I loved the vintage travel chests, wall-mounted keys (replicas of those that enter the city's churches), and ordinance maps of York adorning the communal areas - all evoked the past without being fusty or intrusive. 

A quibble, given the hotel is rebranding: some hallways looked like they'd benefit from a lick of paint, and a few carpets a bit foot-worn. But I am very much drilling down on faults: overall the hotel has been effectively modernised throughout, while not losing the heady patina of its Victorian heritage. 

The Rooms

With 155 rooms, The Milner can host a large number of guests - it's ideal for a large-scale conference, or group away days. The decoration is sympathetic to the rest of the hotel - those tasteful taupes, the gracious greys. Beds are faultless - king-sized, luscious pillows (why do so many hotels struggle with this?), and while I don't know the thread count of the sheets it felt suitably high. My room smelt of disinfectant on entry, but this offered some reassurance - there are certainly more troubling scents to be welcomed with. 

The bathroom, however, really charmed, with a claw-footed tub that filled up zippily - I barely had time to queue up a relaxing podcast - marble fixtures, and a double-headed shower. If luxe-y ablutions are your hotel dream, the Milner delivers. 

The best views, purportedly, are in the suites, but my more modest double room nevertheless proved quiet and calming - I slept the sleep of the just the second my head hit the pillow. And call this a specialist concern, but it was a doddle to figure out how to switch off the room's soft, lilting lighting. You'd be amazed how many hotels make this task nigh-on Sisyphean. An impeccable night's rest was had. 

The Meeting Spaces

The hotel has 11 meeting and conference rooms, in a variety of sizes - the smallest hosting 20 guests, the largest, the events centre, a multi-functional conference space that can be configured to your needs, and holds up to 410 guests. I was very charmed with the Wedgewood room, an airy, well-lit space, with a gasp-inducing view of York and the Minster. It holds up to 80 guests. 

Most noteworthy, however, is the Oak Room, which the hosts were (rightly) notably proud of. Dating back to 1896, it's a space with an inherent grandeur, conjured up by oak-panelled walls, a grand fireplace, a cuckoo clock, and cut-glass chandeliers.  The ceiling itself is gawp-worthy - it's a very stylish spot for a shin-dig.  

The hotel has an on-site team to help organise functions, and very classic British catering is available. I was impressed with the versatility of rooms and configurations available to guests. 

The Food 

You can procure afternoon teas in the Garden Room, or pop into Peachey’s Bar & Grill for pub staples. There's also the ubiquitous 'craft beers' in the popular, sweetly cosy Swollen Gambler (directly across the road from the station).  

The food hit a mark that may be familiar to those who travel a great deal, or head to corporate events. It was good, not remarkable, by no means disappointing. But it would be disingenuous to suggest it was anything more than quite nice - which is, after all, what many conferences are looking to achieve. 

The Facilities

I didn't have bathers, so I only sneaked a peak at the 13m swimming pool, but it was popular and looked utterly inviting, as did the swirly jacuzzi. The on-site gym is fully equipped, clean, and perfect for a business trip workout. There are also two treatment rooms, but any services need to be booked in advance. 

The Staff

With an increased promise of service, it's necessary to assess: the staff were unfailingly smiley and kind. There was a slight sense of some of them 'bedding in' but it felt very much like a hotel about to hit its stride - I expect they'll have their service nailed in a few months of their new order of operations. 

Conclusion

The Milner has much to recommend it - great rooms, lovely beds, an enviably excellent location, close commuter routes to London and Edinburgh. It feels like it promises a hair more luxury than it manages to, but that's not to downplay its appeal - you'll have a lovely stay here. It's a few details away from truly outstanding (the food could be more expert, the staff more polished, and some rooms less tired). None of these things, however, stop it from being ideal for a conference or away day.